Mapping MONTALCINO

In a town where most peopble live on Brunello, it's a relief to see that some still don't. When the flower shop on Montalcino's main square closed down over a year ago, everybody expected that yet another wine shop was about to be opened.  But instead of cases of wine, two beautiful old Singer sewing machines were unpacked and bales of prime Italian fabric were delivered.  Twenty years ago every Italian town used to have a tailor on the main street. One of my favorite ones can still be found in Umbria, where Sartoria Trabalza has managed to resist the tide of globalization on Bevagna's beautiful town square. And  thanks to Renata Prinicipe's artisan spirit  another one has just been born in Montalcino. Craftswomenship has been running through her family for generations, and from clothes to table linens every single piece in the shop is handmade by Renata, her sister and her mom. The textiles at Sartoria Principe range from Tuscan classics like the famo...

I'd suggest you just jog, walk or cycle through the amazing Tuscan hills (for a bike just ask at Montalcino's petrol station for  noleggio biciclette  - bicycles to rent). But if your workout isn't a workout, unless it happens in a restricted and smelly indoor space - Montalcino does have a gym too.  The town's fitness studio is tiny - people here tend to get enough exercise in the vineyards - and centrally located in the Pianello neighborhood close to Montalcino's hospital (just in case). A day pass is available for 10 Euro and special deals may be possible if you stay for a full week. Stop by or call Carla beforehand, who co-owns the gym and speaks excellent English.  Carla  also teaches a great Zumba class. And she definitely knows how to pump up the volume. 

Italy is Europe's biggest producer of organic food. And the market is expanding. In Montalcino the trend is clearly visible with the growing number of wineries, which have moved on to organic or even biodynamic agriculture.  But the organic produce of the Val d'Orcia doesn't stop with wine. Vegetables,  Pecorino cheese  and even honey are organically certified. A good place to taste the locally grown produce is Montalcino's organic market which takes place once a month (usually on a Sunday, see dates for 2013 below).  The 2013 dates of the organic market in Montalcino

As a Brunello lover living in Tuscany, I'm no big fan of famous wine writers. True, they are part of the business and wineries need their attention to make themselves known and their wines sold in the big wide world. But god forbid that you wake one morning to find one of your beloved Tuscan reds mentioned on James Suckling's best 100 Italian wine list - you'd never be able to drink that wine again (unless you're in for a massive pay-rise).  On the other hand, if you're new to this territory you'll probably need some guidance. Even the hard-core taster couldn't get through all of Montalcino's 250 Brunello wineries in a week long holiday. So, if you're planning to stock up on some cases whilst travelling Tuscany - do your reading up before coming out. A great place to start is Tim Atkin's Brunello Special Report. The British writer has been tasting his way through Brunello land for the last 20 years and is one of the few Masters of Wine ...

Planning to spend a few days in Montalcino? Read wedding planner and tour guide Serena's account of her holiday in Brunello town this summer.  You never learn enough of Tuscany and whenever you have the chance to tour an area, you go back home with the feeling that yet something is missing and you need to go back to see more… This sensation was even stronger when visiting Montalcino and Val D’Orcia this summer with my family. View from Montalcino over the hills of the Crete Senesi and Val d'Orcia